Basilica of San Lorenzo & Columns

The Paleochristian Basilica of San Lorenzo was built between 372 and 402, when Milan was the siege of the Roman Empire. The Basilica was renovated and redecorated in the 16th century.

 
With a dome and four towers to brace the other-than-wood dome, it epitomizes a Byzantine central-plan ecclesiastic building based on Constantinople’s Hagia Sofia scheme versus the rectangular scheme of the contemporary basilicas (like the "basilica antiqua" which was located close to the area where the Duomo was then built ). A balcony for female worshippers (matroneum), now partially missing, was running all throughout. Also the polychrome interior decoration is now missing. The most recent structure is the Baroque dome (rebuilt after collapsing). In front of the Basilica there is a wide courtyard; opposite, there is a colonnade, the so-called “Colonne di San Lorenzo”. These columns are Roman remains and were placed in situ at the time of the Basilica construction. Other chapels (originally shrines) were added to the Basilica and include the outstanding Cappella di Sant'Aquilino (Chapel of St. Aquilino) featuring valuable 4th century mosaics. Behind the church, a green area offers an excellent viewpoint to the Basilica and its complex architecture. Previously this area was filled with a channel or a small lake (probably with a port), then it was used for public executions as narrated by Alessandro Manzoni in his Storia della Colonna Infame. The columns located in front of the Basilica (at 39 Corso di Porta Ticinese) are rare Roman remains along with few other remains from the amphitheatre, the theatre, the huge baths etc. recalling the Imperial age in Milan. There are 16 columns in marble with Corinthian capitals which bear the trabeation belonging to a Roman building dating back to the 3rd century AD (possibly from the baths built by emperor Maximilian when Milan was the capital of the Western Roman Empire). To complete the Basilica, the columns were moved to the current location in the 4th century. They have a sentimental value to the Milanese since they point to the existence of ancient Mediolanum that withstood the destructive rush of the Goths, Barbarossa and WWII bombing… and also the constructive rush of its inhabitants. Until 1935 the area between the church and the columns was populated with old working-class buildings, at the back of the façade of the Basilica. In spite of some projects aiming at preserving this picturesque area, according to a renewal plan it was decided to demolish the crumbling houses. Due to the fiery bombing in 1944 and 1945, many houses (on the back of the church) became unfit for use. In postwar years a green area was created and called Parco delle Basiliche (park of the basilicas) due to the existence of Basilica of San Lorenzo and Basilica of Sant'Eustorgio. There was a depression filled with water (perhaps with a port). This area was named "via della Vetra" maybe for the presence of tanners (called "vetraschi") or after the name of a channel ("Vectra") conveying the water fed from the Seveso and Nirone streams to southern Milan (it was evil-smelling water). Later on, punishments, hangings and executions were carried out in this area (an 18th century monument - replacing a previous cross - commemorates these facts). Now it is called "piazza Vetra". In recent years young people started to collect at the Colonne’s because of their favourable, easy-to-reach position on the Duomo-Via Torino-Porta Ticinese-Navigli axis, thus dozens of pubs and bars – some very stylish – opened there. To prevent urban degradation, the Mayor of Milan, Mrs. Letizia Moratti, implemented some experimental actions to protect the whole monumental site. Specifically, an order was issued for the period from June 6 to July 31, 2007 – establishing that, from 9PM to the closing time, all shops, take-aways, cream parlours, delicatessens etc. in the area would sell drinks in paper or plastic glasses. Likewise, pubs and bars had to stop selling take-away drinks in glass bottles. To preserve the site, a crush barrier was installed around the columns and the church courtyard from 7PM to 7AM (garbage was collected by the street-cleaning service AMSA starting from 2AM). Actually, the barrier brought the young to gather there spontaneously and mount a pacific protest, thus attracting the media. As a consequence, the Council reached a compromise between the needs of the residents and the claims of the young. According to this agreement, the area from the Paleochristian columns and the statue of Constantine was reopened to the public – a ban on selling glass bottles being still in force and the area being manned by the police. Should this experiment prove satisfactory, then the beautiful parvis (currently an off-limit zone) will be reopened too. 

San Lorenzo

Sant’Eustorgio